Oh Copenhagen!

Oh Copenhagen!

Early morning Copenhagen.
Townhall Tower leftmost, Our Lady's Church rightmost

Copenhagen Travel "Wonderful Copenhagen", Danny Kaye 24 Hours in Copenhagen "Oh Copenhagen", Seebach Band Architecture in Copenhagen Copenhagen, Denmark "Wonderful Copenhagen", Wallmans

Facts on Copenhagen
Latitude: 55° 43' North
Longitude: 12° 34' East
Founded: 1162 AC
Inhabitants: 1.2 million
Distance from Stockholm, Sweden: 12 hour by boat, 1½ hour by plane
Distance from Oslo, Norway: 8 hour by boat, 1 hour by plane
Distance from Berlin, Germany: 8 hour by car, 1 hour by plane
Language: Danish (close related to Swedish and Norwegian)
Currency: Kroner & Ører
Euro and Dollar is accepted at most places.

Introduction
This is a tribute to a great city. As a copenhagener, it is my pleasure to display some of the attractions you probably have heard of, and a few personal favourites you surely never heard of. Hopefully this mixture will make you want to see Copenhagen for real - because you're worth it!

Yours truly
Kurt Starlit
aka CykelKurt

Somewhere to stay
Generator Hostel
Adelgade 5-7, 1304 Copenhagen K, Denmark
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

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Need a place to stay? Generator Hostel is cheap and easy. Located in a central part of town, you can walk right out into city life from here.

Generator Hostel Copenhagen

Alternative:

Danhostel Copenhagen City, H.C. Andersens Boulevard 50, 1553 Copenhagen K

Getting around

Hop On Hop Off Double Decker Bus Tour

To get an overall view, take a bus ride through Copenhagen, hop on and off as you like. A harbour boat tour is also a nice way to move around - not to mention bike riding, the biggest thrill of all.

Copenhagen Hop On Hop Off

Copenhagen Hop On Hop Off

Getting around

Transport in Copenhagen

sightseeing.dk

Copenagen Walks (guided tours with HC Andersen)

City Safari (Copenhagen bike tours)

Copenhagen History Tours

Copenhagen Walking Tours

Canal Tours (Stromma)

Canal Tours (Netto Bådene)

Guided Jazz Tours

Ghost Tours

Weirdwalks

Rundetårn (round tower)
Købmagergade 52A
1150 Copehagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Built 1642 by King Christian IV (the fourth), it is still used as an observatory. They say you can drive a car to the top of the tower. Nevertheless visitors are asked to walk. They have this library in the middle of the tower where I attended a jazz piano concert in 1999.

When I was a boy in the 1950s, I was very impressed (and frightened) by this movie, "Det var på Rundetårn" (it happened at the round tower), because the actors were climbing on the outside of the tower. So now, let's show them we're not afraid by watching this excerpt from the movie once more. And even if you don't understand Danish, you can probably tell that the language spoken in this movie is far from the Danish you'll hear in the streets today. Maybe you'll also notice that the Købmagergade in those days were an ordinary street with cars, pavement and all. Today it's a pedestrian street. Also, notice the recordings from inside the tower, the spiral staircase going bottom-top of the tower. And believe it or not, russian tzar Peter the Great (1672-1725) once rode the staircase in his three team horse carriage.

Round Tower (Rundetårn)

Nyhavn (newport)
Nyhavn, Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

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Nyhavn was brought into being by King Christian V (the fifth) 1670-73 or, to be exact, dug by Swedish war prisoners of the Dano-Swedish War 1658-1660. It is a gateway from the sea to the inner city at Kongens Nytorv (King's Square). For centuries this place was notorious for drinking and prostitution. Danish author Hans Christian Andersen stayed at Nyhavn 18 for a number of years.

Nyhavn (Wikipedia)

Østre Anlæg (eastern park)
Stockholmsgade 24
2100 Copenhagen Ø (Ø = Øst = East)
S-Train station: Østerport

Østre Anlæg is one of several public parks in Copenhagen. It was once part of the Copenhagen fortification on the former ramparts. In the southern end of the park you'll find Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery) and the Hirschsprung Collection (paintings). It's a favourite of mine because, as a metropolitan, you sometimes need peace and quietness. This, you are garanteed to find inside Østre Anlæg (eastern park).

Østre Anlæg

National Gallery of Denmark (Statens Museum for Kunst)

Hirschsprung

Under Uret (under the clock)
Øster Farimagsgade 4
2100 Copenhagen Ø (Ø = Øst = East)
S-Train station: Østerport

Once you have been walking around in Østre Anlæg (see above), it seems like a healthy idea to get back on track at UNDER URET. This will give you an idea of what a Danish tavern would look like in the (so called) good old days. Personally, I often keep unformal meetings with buddies and schoolmates here. The owner Hans is a nice guy, who demands peace and quietness. He took over from his parents in 1965 and has been at your service ever since.

Being a regular customer (da. stamkunde) here, means that you are entitled to your own personal drinking glass with your name printed in it. On the wall you'll find regular customers' glasses lined up, ranked and filed. When a customer dies, a ceremony is held and his glass is crushed into the gutter outside. With red-white checkered tablecloth and old fashioned furnishings you can't help but feeling at home in an old-fashioned place like this. Deep down here you get a feeling that time has stood still. You can play billards, smoke a cigarette, read the daily paper, speak (softly) to your friends and most of all enjoy a beer or two - they have a large variety.

If you listen to the music down here, you'll notice that a great percentage of the music is jazz from the 1950s or 1960s played softly on the stereo. Hans once told me this is because...."soft jazz is good if you need to talk." He is not really interested in jazz, but as long as it makes people drink, it's allright with him.

Under Uret (in Danish only)

The corner with gambling machines

Next to the gambling machines (the white plastic chairs are for outdoor use)

Part of the main room (note the glasses reserved for regular customers)

The shelf with regular customers' glass

The main room

My friend Peter and I (and no, I'm not gay)

Hans himself

Hans in a typical position

As told by unknown guest

As already told, Hans is a nice guy as long as you respect the unwritten laws at his tavern. He certainly don't appreciate photographing, so I had to take the attached pictures (hopefully) without his notice - and certainly without any kind of flash. For this reason the pictures may seem a bit dark and shaky, but I guess that's the price you'll have to pay...

And talking about Hans, who knows how long he will keep on going? I don't know either, but it's gonna be a sad day when he closes his business. Under Uret will probably be turned into....no, I won't even think about it, but it will be turned into something else, that much is for sure. For this reason and others I consider any picture taken down here as invaluable.

End of story
On September 3, 2013, as we were passing by Hans' place, we noticed they were carrying Hans' coffin from the house to his final resting place. Hans was a good man and we'll miss him very much. Let his soul rest in peace! What this means to UNDER URET has yet to be seen.

On June 7, 2014, Hans' Place re-opened under new management. The place has turned into a restaurant, and though most of the furnitures are the same, the price level has elevated considerably. White has replaced brown as the main colour. And worst of all: The shelf with customers' glasses has disappeared and so have the billards table and gambling machines. Smoking is no longer allowed. We were down there one night, the food was all right, the beer was all right, but something was certainly missing: Hans!

A few days later, in a local paper, we read this notice.

Smoking (da. rygning)

A few words on smoking. We have rather complex rules on that subject in Denmark.

Outdoor smoking is allowed, you can do as you like.

Indoor smoking is usually NOT allowed, UNLESS the room is smaller than 40 square meters. In some places smoking is not allowed anyway, in other places they are part-time smokers, and in extreme cases they don't give a damn. It's quite messy, so it's a good idea to ask about the smoking policy at each particular location.

The reason for this mess is political. It's a compromise. The law against smoking in public indoor areas (hospitals, schools, libraries etc.) were introduced 1995. Later on it was extended to all indoor areas, e.g. private companies and shops.

At home, in your private house or apartment, you can do as you like - for the time being. It has been considered whether the law should apply to these areas as well, but nothing has been decided yet.

For me personally, the ban on indoor smoking was a step forward. I remember all too well in the past, how non-smokers were considered fanatics or mentally unstable characters. Today, we have reached a point where non-smokers are considered nearly human. That's something.

Tobacco smoking

Smoking ban

Mobile Repair
Købmagergade 59
1150 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

iRep, Købmagergade 59

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Did your cellphone or iPad go broke? Don't panic, it (usually) can be repaired.

iRep.dk (Købmagergade 59, 1150 Copenhagen K)

Phone Factory (Bellahøjvej 117, 2720 Vanløse)

Kongens Have (The King's Garden)
Entrance from three sides: Gothersgade, Sølvgade and Kronprinsessegade.
Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

The puppet theatre is big fun for all ages.

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A green area for all generations. Bring your chair, coffee and/or beloved one - all kinds of events are happening here. Open air jazz concerts are performed during Copenhagen Jazz Festival each year in July. World Soccer games are displayed on huge screens. From June 1 to August 31 you can enjoy the puppet theatre, Marionet Teatret. Actually designed for children, adults find it funny as well. Free entrance.

The King's Garden

Rosenborg Slot (Rosenborg Castle)
Øster Voldgade 4A
1350 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

A sight like this can be enjoyed from King's Garden each year in March.

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Rosenborg Castle was built as a (believe it or not) turnkey summerhouse for King Christian IV (the fourth) in 1624. In those days it were located outside the gates of Copenhagen. Later on it was upgraded to hold the crown jewels. Even later it was decided to hold the royal personal art treasures here - and that's how it remains today. Rosenborg Castle and The King's Garden are connected by a small bridge, so you can walk directly from the garden into the castle or vice versa.

Rosenborg Castle

Castle history

Rosenborg Castle Gardens

Rosenborg Kaserne (Rosenborg Barracks)
Gothersgade 100, 1123 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

The Rosenborg Barracks are located next to the Rosenborg Castle. It has been the headquarter of The Royal Lifeguard (da. Den kongelige Livgarde) since 1786 and up till now (2012). A number of changes has taken place during that time, learn more from the following link. Every day at 11 there's a parade. Also, at the same time, enjoy the soliders march for changing of the guard at Amalienborg, the royal residence.

Rosenborg Barracks (Wikipedia)

Amalienborg
Amaliegade 18
1256 Copenhagen K
Bus: 11A

Changing of the Guard every day at 12 o'clock

The royal family needed a place to stay, so they decided for this humble cottage...

Amalienborg (Wikipedia)

The Danish Monarchy

The Amalienborg Museum

Kastellet (The Citadel)
Gl. Hovedvagt,
Kastellet 1,
2100 Copenhagen Ø
S-Train station: Østerport

Inside Kastellet (the citadel)

King Christian IV (1577-1648) built Kastellet (the citadel) 1626. It is a so-called star fortress, shaped like a pentagram with bastions at its corners. A number of buildings are located within the grounds of Kastellet, including a church and a windmill. The citadel, in case they went under siege, in this way was self-sufficient with spiritual and physical nutrition. The windmill went out of service 1960. Today it is working as a museum. The buildings at the citadel nowadays are mainly used for administrative purposes, though a few military activities are still going on. For this reason you can still meet soldiers and other military personnel in full uniform here, e.g. the gatekeeper.

Kastellet i København

Kastellet, Copenhagen (Wikipedia)

Kastellets Venner (Friends of The Citadel)

Jazzcup
Gothersgade 107
1123 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Just opposite King's Garden you'll find Jazzcup, a highly esteemed saloon where you can buy jazz records or listen to live jazz. Coffee and beer is served. Personally, I have heard Henrik Gunde Trio several times here, and still coming back for more. Take a listen, for example, to his interpretation of "New York State Of Mind".

Jazzcup

Marmorkirken (the marble church)
aka Frederikskirken (Frederik's Church)
Frederiksgade 4, 1265 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

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Huge and impressive building. A few times I attended organ concerts here, even more impressive.

Frederik's Church (Wikipedia)

Mormors (Grandma's Café)
Bredgade 15
1260 Copenhagen K
Bus: 1A, 26

Mormor's Café - looking inside out

Mormor's is a small place where you can rest your weary soul. Do visit this place, if you would like to see how our parents were living way back in the fifties. The furnitures, the wallpaper and everything are authentic, it's like going sixty years backwards in time. Enjoy coffee and homemade cake at Mormor's. Open all week.

Mormor's (eng. Grandma's Café)

Arbejdermuseet (The Workers' Museum)
Rømersgade 22
1362 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

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The museum is a collection of everything relevant, talking Danish working class history. E.g. we're invited inside a typical working class apartment from 1920, 1930 and so forth. Besides you can

• experience everyday life of the 1950s and taste chocolate biscuit cake and chicory coffee,

• visit the Sørensen family who moved to Copenhagen in 1885,

• learn about the development of industrial work,

• get a taste of history in Café & Øl-Halle 1892, the only listed basement restaurant in Copenhagen,

(maybe I should stress that Café & Øl-Halle is a real place, you can eat and drink here for real.)

• experience a light and sound show on the dramatic founding of Danish labour movement.

The Workers' Museum (da. Arbejdermuseet)

Botanisk Have (Botanical Garden)
Øster Farimagsgade 2B or Gothersgade 130 (two entrances)
1353 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

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Trees and plants from all over the world. Interesting to visit this place any season. The big greenhouse is something.

Botanical Garden and Museum

Botanical Garden (University of Copenhagen)

Faraos Cigarer (the cigars of Farao)
Skindergade 27, 1159 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

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Who said cartoons are for children only, these days they're for everyone.
My personal favourite is Blake & Mortimer, how about you?
Zap, bbloiiiink and wheeez, no problem, Farao will deliver.

Georg Jensen
Amagertorv 4, 1160 Copenhagen K (shop & museum)
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

Jewelry, watches, silver, cutlery - Georg Jensen makes it hard to decide.

Also, visit Georg Jensen at department store Magasin, Kongens Nytorv 13, 1095 Copenhagen K (metro station: Kongens Nytorv).

Georg Jensen

H.C. Ørstedspark
Nørre Farimagsgade 6,
1364 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
S-Train station: Vesterport

Orstedpark on a winter's day

H.C. Ørsted was the dane who discovered electromagnetism. So, to honour him they gave this park his name. Even though you'll see women and children during the daytime here, it is nevertheless considered gay cruising area. So - unless you really are gay - don't walk here after dark.

Ørstedsparken

Bike rental

Moving around on a bike is easy. Furthermore it's quiet(!) fun.

Bike City Copenhagen

Baisikeli

Rent a Bike!

City of Cyclists, 1/5

City of Cyclists, 2/5

City of Cyclists, 3/5

City of Cyclists, 4/5

City of Cyclists, 5/5

Jazzhus Montmartre (JazzHouse Montmartre)
Store Regnegade 19 A
1110 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

Live jazz, first class food and musicians. Quite expensive though.

Jazzhus Montmartre

Danish Cuisine (det danske køkken)

Typical danish smorrebrod

For your benefit, restaurants dealt with at this site are mainly chosen because of their price/quality ratio - not because they (maybe) are Danish.

However, if you first and foremost are looking for something genuine Danish, here's a few additional recommandations:

Bjælkehuset (the log cabin)
Valby Langgade 2, 2500 Valby
Bus: 26A

Rest. Puk
Vandkunsten 8, 1467 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Café Rex
Pilestræde 50, 1112 Copenhagen K
Bus: 11A

Københavner Cafeen (The Copenhagener Cafe)
Badstuestræde 10, 1209 Copenhagen K
Bus: 11A

Rest. Schønnemann
Hauser Plads 16, 1127 Copenhagen K
Metro: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Café Sorgenfri
Brolæggerstræde 8, 1211 Copenhagen K
Metro: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Skindbuksen (the leather pants) (live music 7pm, Tuesday-Saturday)
Lille Kongensgade 4, 1074 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

Tove Ditlevsens Mindehave (in memory of danish author Tove Ditlevsen)
Enghavevej 4-6, 1674 Copenhagen V
Bus: 26A

Rest. Willumsen
Store Regnegade 26, 1110 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 26A
Live jazz every Wednesday 18:30 - 21:30
along with danish speciality, fried bacon with parsley sauce.

Danish Cuisine

Bathing

Harbourbath Islands Brygge

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A bath in the open is something. Here's a few suggestions:

Havnebadet Islands Brygge, Islands Brygge 7, 2300 Copenhagen S (Metro station: Islands Brygge)

Havnebadet Fisketorvet, Kalvebod Brygge 55, 1560 Copenhagen V (S- train station: Dybbølsbro)

Amager Strandpark, Amager Strandvej, 2300 Copenhagen S (Metro station: Amager Strand).

Copenhagen Harbour Baths

Perch Tea
A. C. Perch's Thehandel (thehandel = tea trade)
Kronprinsensgade 5
1114 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv

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If you have any interest in tea, this is a must.

Perch Tea

Bakken (the hill)
Dyrehavevej 62
2930 Klampenborg (a suburb of Cph.)

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The oldest amusement park in the world and the most entertaining in Denmark - with a tradition stretching back 425 years. Dyrehavsbakken is located in the most attractive countryside area near Copenhagen. Right outside the gates stands Dyrehaven, one of the most delightful stretches of woods in Denmark, which with its wonderful natural treasures provides a beautiful backdrop that other amusement parks can only wish for.

Couldn't say it better. Have been here many times, this is for everyone. Get in without a penny (free entrance), get out with a smile on your face.

Bakken

The Mysterious Piano Player
Købmagergade (near Round Tower)
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

The mysterious piano player dressed up for a cold day.

If you walk down pedestrian street Købmagergade (at Rundetårn, round tower), you'll probably meet him: Yul Anderson, the mysterious piano player. He is here, there and everywhere. Last time I met Anderson was in Mönckebergstraβe, Hamburg, Germany where he performed a solo concert. If you ask him about his career, the answer will be something like, "I'm just doing my best". And so he is, many people come in from neighbouring countries to hear Anderson play in the streets of Copenhagen. Even in the wintertime you'll see him play out in the streets, wearing hat and gloves and everything. Impressive.

Yul Anderson

Vicepresident Mbeki (South Africa) & Yul Anderson

Yul Anderson in Copenhagen (YouTube)

Yul Anderson playing on Købmagergade (YouTube)

Hvide Lam (white lamb)
Café "Hvide Lam"
Kultorvet 5
1175 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport

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This is one of the oldest taverns in Copenhagen, they started business 1801 when the english navy sent fire grenades over the city. Great parts of Copenhagen were destroyed (in those days Copenhagen was a small town, encircled by ramparts and moats). The house itself was built 1754. These days you get 3 open sandwiches ("smørrebrød") and one Tuborg beer served at your table for less than 100DKK. You'll find live jazz here, seven days a week, starting at 8.30 p.m. (20:30), free entrance, no dress code, no nothing.

About smoking:
In the daytime until 15:00 (3pm), as long as guests are eating, smoking is not allowed. Around this time, people have stopped asking for smørrebrød, so from now on smoking is free. When the musicians start at 20:30 (8:30 pm) the room can get quite smoky. I am not defending this policy, but at least the owner has forbidden smoking while guests are eating their lunch in the daytime. So far, so good.

Hvide Lam (in danish only)

Den lille Havfrue (The Little Mermaid)
Langeline, 2100 Copenhagen Ø

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The Little Mermaid is a statue, based on a fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen. The statue is rather small, nevertheless it is a major tourist attraction.

The little Mermaid

Samos Restaurant (greek)
Skindergade 29
1159 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Greek restaurant in central Copenhagen. Fair prices, nice buffet.

Samos Restaurant

Photografica (photoshop)
Skindergade 41, 1159 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Need a good camera, used or new, try Photografica. Professional & second hand cameras is written on the wall. And I agree, they know what it's all about, when it comes to photographing and photographic equipment.

Photografica

Musikinstrumenter (musical instruments)

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If you have any interest in musical instruments, here's a few places to go:

Woodstock Guitars
Borgergade 14, 1300 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

Guitars, basses, amps, pedals and so on and so forth - this is it!

Marno Sørensen
Skoubogade 5, 1158 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Need a reed, string or brass instrument? Marno is your man. Actually Marno died many years ago (1970 or something), he was a skilled saxophone player, starting his own business - now run by his son.

4SOUND
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

Guitar / Bass / PA: Åbenrå 1-3, 1124 Copenhagen K
Keyboard / Studio / DJ: Landemærket 27-29, 1119 København K
Percussion: Landemærket 25, 1119 Copenhagen K

This is probably the biggest music instrument store in the Copenhagen area. They changed their name recently to this ridiculous 4SOUND - think he's a Swedish capitalist or something, who took over from the original owner, Åge Jensen. Never mind, they'll make (nearly) any wish come true.

Planetariet (Tycho Brahe Planetarium)
Gammel Kongevej 10
1610 København
S-Train station: Vesterport

The Planetarium, that's where you can enjoy 3D IMAX movies and find out about the stars and other planets of the solar system. Boys of all ages find The Planetarium exciting with mooncars, rockets and all kinds of things. You can also eat in here, the Cassiopeia restaurant is delicious, though not exactly cheap.

After enjoying the planetarium, why not take a stroll around the three lakes (Søerne) next to the planetarium. It's six kilometres (3.7 miles) of fresh air and sights.

Tycho Brahe Planetarium

Tycho Brahe Planetarium (Wikipedia)

Planetarium Web Shop

Rest. Hellas (greek)
Fiolstræde 21
1171 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

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Don't know why it is sometimes called ELLAS - in Danish we always spell HELLAS. Greek people are nice people, greek dishes, nice buffet adapted to danish standards, fair prices.

Ellas

Vor Frelser Kirke (Our Saviour's Church)
Sankt Annægade 29
1416 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Christianshavn

Are you interested in churches and their organs, don't hesitate to visit Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelser Kirke), it is quite unique. Someone wrote:

The huge organ with Christian V's gilded monogram was built by the Botzen Brothers from 1698-1700 and is mounted on the wall and supported by two elephants. The organ has more than 4000 pipes with the original cymbelstern tinkling in the background during a special part of a music piece, and the entire instrument produces the sound that was heard in the church over 300 years ago. The church arranges 15-20 concerts every year together with musical church services on Sundays. The last rebuilding of the organ was in 1965, reusing older pipe work and this instrument is equipped with 57 stops spread over 4 manuals and pedals. The facade of the organ has intricate wood carvings and a bust of Christian V in the centre.

I attended quite a number of organ concerts here in the 1970s - especially I remember french organ virtuoso Marie-Claire Alain playing the organ of Our Saviour - and was impressed, to say the least.

About the church itself, the corkscrew spire can be climbed on the outside staircase - I did this as a 10 year old boy and shall never forget. See if you dare yourself!

Church of Our Saviour

Operaen (Copenhagen Opera House)
Ekvipagemestervej 10
1438 Copenhagen K
Bus: 66
Also, there's a so-called "harbour-bus", sailing from Nyhavn towards the opera three times an hour.

Oh boy, politicians (and the rest of us) had discussions for years and years, until finally someone with guts (and money) made the decision.
Result: Copenhagen Opera House.
Thank you very much!

Copenhagen Opera House (Wikipedia)

The Operahouse in Copenhagen (danish only, sorry)

Rest. Ankara (turkish)
Krystalgade 8-10
1172 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport

At a two minutes walk from Round Tower (Rundetårn) you get a delicious buffet, reasonable prices, good spirit and friendly people. You don't necessarily have to eat spicy or oriental at Ankara, from the buffet it is possible to mix a dish to your personal taste. I have been eating here many times with friends and wife, and each time was a pleasure.

Rest. Ankara

Frihedsmuseet
("Freedom Museum" - The Museum of Danish Resistance 1940-1945)
Churchillparken 7, 1263 Copenhagen K
Bus: 11A

The V3 armoured car on display in front of the Freedom Museum.

Denmark was occupied by german troops 1940-45. We call these years "de fem forbandede år" - the five damned years. The museum is dealing with the resistance against nazi-Germany in general and in detail.

The Museum of Danish Resistance 1940-1945

Copenhagen JazzHouse
Niels Hemmingsens Gade 10
1153 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

Established 1991, owned by musicians, run by musicians: Copenhagen JazzHouse in the centre of Copenhagen.
This is IT!
JazzHouse

Hviid's Vinstue (Hviid's Winecellar)
Kongens Nytorv 19
1050 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv

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The oldest tavern in town and a favourite of mine. 3 open sandwiches (smørrebrød) plus 1 Tuborg beer at a price around 70DKK is something most people can afford. At Kongens Nytorv you're close to Nyhavn (newport), Strøget (pedestrian street) and Det kongelige Teater (the royal theatre). The waiters are in a class of their own.

Hviid's Vinstue

Tivoli
Vesterbrogade 3
1630 Copenhagen V
Bus: 11A
S-Train station: Hovedbanegården (central station)

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Amusement park. You probably have heard about it, so I won't go into detail.

Tivoli

Torvehallerne (The Market Halls)
Frederiksborggade 21
1360 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 11A

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Torvehallerne is a large foodmarket with just about anything you can think of. More than sixty different stalls. It's all indoor, so on a rainy day it seems like an ideal place to go.

While you're in here, take a look at The Coffee Collective and their Direct Trade strategy.

Torvehallerne

Toldbod Bodega
(told = custom, bod = house, bodega = tavern)
Bar & Restaurant
Esplanaden 4, 1263 Copenhagen K
S-Train station: Østerport
Bus: 11A

Probably the oldest restaurant in town, established 1787, that's what you're told if you read the Toldbod pamphlet. From personal experience I know that this is about the best place to go, when it comes to Danish food and furnishings. It's bringing you back to the good old days, when your grandma prepared and served delicious meals straight from the oven. Many a day, you'll have to make reservations to get at table here. Oh boy, If I were a rich man, this is where I would spend my day(s). Also, they have this funny waiter Ivar, who loves to tell his crazy stories, should you care to listen. In the 1970s he was an actor in the musical "Hair". Ask him any question, he is clever and entertaining. Open every day except Monday

Toldbod Bodega

Den kgl. Porcelainsfabrik (Royal Copenhagen)
Webshop at Amagertorv 6, 1160 Copenhagen K
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 11A

Seagull porcelain dinnerware, designed by Fanny Garde 1895

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Royal porcelain, either you're crazy about it or you simply.....

Royal Copenhagen

RC Webshop

Royal Copenhagen (Wikipedia)

Sultan Palace (turkish)
Valkendorfsgade 34
Copenhagen K
Metro station: Nørreport

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Turkish rest. close to Strøget, the pedestrian street, buffet less than 100DKK, all kinds of drinks.

Sultan Palace

Zoologisk Have (Copenhagen Zoo)
Roskildevej 32
2000 Frederiksberg
Bus: 26A

The Zoo tower is something special. It was built 1905 as a copy of the Eiffel Tower.
Standing on a hill, the tower itself is some 40 meters. On a good day you can see Sweden from here.

Though it's two miles outside central Copenhagen, the Zoo is a must. Once inside, you'll find a section especially for children with animals they can caress. The Zoo is open each end every day.

Copenhagen Zoo

Café Cykelstalden (Café Bike Barn)
Oslo Plads
2100 Copenhagen Ø
S-Train station: Østerport

Rosenberg (vocal), Fischer (gtr) & Rasmussen (bs) at Cykelstalden, 2006.April.05.

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Café Cykelstalden is located inside train station Østerport. Every second wednesday they present live jazz, usually around 4pm. I have heard several first class musicians performing here. It's always jazz, but jazz you can live with. Beer and mineral water is served (I'm not sure about food). Free entrance.

Not much is written about this venue, so instead of linking to something that don't exist, let's listen to someone who performed once in a while at Cykelstalden: Asger Rosenberg. While he was still among us, someone (secretly) recorded Rosenberg's intelligent interpretation of a Charlie Chaplin song, "Smile!" (recorded live at Cykelstalden, April 6, 2005).

You probably can tell there's quite an atmosphere in here, Rosenberg is singing without any amplification - oh boy, this is class!

Gefionspringvandet (The Gefion Fountain)
Churchillparken, 1263 Copenhagen K
Bus: 11A

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Anders Bundgaard revealed his Gefion Fountain in 1908. The story goes that the swedish king had promised goddess Gefion she could plough Zealand (da. Sjælland) out of Sweden. He gave her one day and one night to do the job. For this reason Gefion transformed her four sons into oxen and harnessed them to a plough. When finished ploughing, she carried enormous amounts of soil out into the sea, hereby becoming Zealand. In Sweden a large hole remained, known as Lake Mälaren. The Gefion Fountain is the largest monument in Copenhagen and used as a wishing well.

Gefion Fountain (Wikipedia)

Café Leo
Sølvgade 2, 1307 Copenhagen K
Café & Restaurant
Metro station: Kongens Nytorv
Bus: 26A

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This place is owned by turkish born Aslan, a nice guy who knows how to make decent priced quality food. Dish of the day for less than 100DKK. I live two blocks away and have enjoyed many a dish here. And drinks...

Café Leo

MODEL & HOBBY ever since 1948
Frederiksborggade 23, 1360 Copehagen K
Metro station: Nørreport
Bus: 5A - 14 - 40

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Visit the oldest hobbyshop in Denmark - a shop and exhibitions combined with a cheerful atmosphere.

That's what they declare - and I have no reason to doubt.

MODEL & HOBBY

Pølsevognen (the hot dog stand)

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If you need food on the run, go for the Pølsemand (the hot dog man). You'll find him (or her, because quite often you'll be serviced by a female) all over town. The berliners "invented" the hot dog man a long time ago, and around 1920 he came to Copenhagen. Among copenhageners this kind of restaurant is called "Restaurant Fodkold" (restaurant cold feet), because, as you probably imagine, it can be quite chilly to stand on the outside of a sausage stand on a winters day. Anyway, I use this swift service quite often, nothing is better than a warm sausage on a frosty day. Soft drinks are served as well.

Hot Dog Stand

Sausage Phrase Book (impossible to translate, most of it is heavy danish slang)

Nyboder (new small houses)
Kronprinsessegade, Copenhagen K
Bus: 26A

Nyboder Christmas card, 1890

Built by King Christian IV (the fourth) in 1631, the yellow buildings of Nyboder were meant for housing the personnel of the Royal Danish Navy. All the buildings had this yellow colour - soon called "Nyboder-yellow" as it became popular all over the country.

Nyboder

St. Paul's Church (Sankt Pauls Kirke)
Sankt Pauls Plads
1314 Copenhagen K
Bus: 26A

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This church is located in the middle of the Noboder area. For the same reason it is often called "Nyboder Church". It was built in the 1870s and (in my humble opinion) very beautiful - especially on the inside. These days (2012) several churches in the Copenhagen area are resigned due to the lack of.....well, the churches are practically empty, so someone proposed the idea of using them for other purposes. What these purposes exactly are, hasn't been decided yet.

St. Paul's Church (in Danish only)

St. Paul's Church (Wikipedia)

THE TRAM (sporvognen)

Trams of Copenhagen, 1951

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The first tram was seen in the streets of Copenhagen 1873, and the final tram reached its destinal stop 1972, some hundred years later. On many a citizen these vehicles made an everlasting impression. You could bring any kind of luggage through the tram entrance, the conductor would usually let you in. From the windows you could enjoy a beautiful sight of your own city.

Today you'll have to take the bus or metro. In Berlin and Prague they still have got the tram and it's a joy to ride. They say we're in need of green consciousness all over the globe, so why don't we re-introduce the tram in Copenhagen!

"Der kommer altid en sporvogn" ("A tram and a girl will always turn up", by two Danish actors, Dirch Passer & Ove Sprogø)

Tram 5, approx. 1970.

Discount ticket

Linie 14 (Tram 14)
Sporvejen (The Tram) - Copenhagen Burger Bar
Gråbrødretorv 17, 1154 Copenhagen K

The idea with this intimate restaurant is to bring you back to the glorious days when Copenhagen had trams of their own.

I had passed this square many times, when a friend insisted that we took a closer look. Well, me oh my, once you're inside, it turns out to be a tram! Yes Sir, with tramdriver, seats and all in the midst of Copenhagen. Once onboard, you can spend your time in your own thoughts, while the rest of the world is tossing around somewhere else. The conductor will see that your glass is never empty - or the plate for that matter. To put it short, Tram 14 is worth a ride!

My wife Hennie's getting onboard Linie 14.

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From the Linie 14 homepage we read:

- 1841, Tram 14 has started as a horse-carried vehicle on wheels.

- 1863, the first rails are laid, the first real tram is seen in the streets of Cph.

- 1884, steam-driven trams are operating.
(Unfortunately it didn't succeed, so it had to close down in 1892).

- 1904, the tram is re-opened as an electric tram.

- 1965, Oct. 16, the last Tram 14 is driving through Copenhagen.

- 1972, April 23, Tram 5, the very last tram of Cophagen has reached its destination.

The conductor displaying the menu.

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Discount ticket for The Tram

sporvejen.dk (sporvejen = the tram line)

Christiania
Prinsessegade
Copenhagen K
Metro station: Christianshavn

1970: These military barracks stood empty for years, so a number of young people took fate into their own hands and invaded the place - Christiania was born. This alternate town has existed more than forty years now (2012). A terrible lot has happened during that time, but Christiania survived, and today you can walk safely among people and creatures out here or enjoy a guided tour, check the Christiania home page.

Guide to Christiania

Freetown Christiania (Wikipedia)

Christianiashop

christiania.org

Christiania pics. (Google)

Christiania bikes

Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket (Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, "the glyptotek")
Dantes Plads 7
1556 Copenhagen K
Railway station: Hovedbanegården
Bus: 11A

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is an art exhibition built around the personal collection of Carl Jacobsen (1842 - 1914). He was the son of J.C. Jacobsen (1811-87) who was the founder of Carlsberg Brewery in 1847.

My personal favourite at the glyptotek is "Vandmoderen" (the water mother). Created by Kai Nielsen 1921, it is an allegory of life's creation. However, the original marble statue for various reasons was rebuilt 2005. It is located in the museum's Winter Garden.

And talking about Winter Garden, you get a feeling of being at The Mediterranian, when you're in here - no matter which time of the year. I'm not sure if it is still happening, but way back in the 1970s you could attend sonic experiences in this huge room. A danish maniac....sorry, composer had constructed what he called four channel music. So each day at 1am you could enjoy "music" from four speakers - one in each uppermost corner of the Winter Garden. It was not music in the usual sense of the word - rather I would describe it as a soundscape - a landscape of sounds. Gunner Møller Pedersen, who wrote the score, had divided his work into 12 pieces, one for each month of the year. For the same reason they were named January, February, March and so on. So, even if it was not a musical experience in the usual sense of the word, his work lifted the place into an even higher level of spiritual enjoyment.

Read more about the glyptotek in the links attached.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (Wikipedia)

Carlsberg bryggeri (Carlsberg Brewery)
Carlsberg Museum
Valby Langgade 1
2500 Valby
S-Train station: Valby
Bus: 26A

Carlsberg logo

As a reference to the glyptotek, you may have heard about the Carlsberg Brewery. It was built on a hill (Valby Bakke). For this reason founder J.C. Jacobsen (1811-87) named the brewery after his son Carl Jacobsen (1842-1914) and the hill: Carl's Berg = Carl's mountain or Carl's hill.

Today the old brewery has turned into a museum where you learn how to produce beer - and taste! Besides, they have retained some carriages from the past with horses and everything. These carriages are touring Copenhagen daily, so if you are lucky, you'll meet a Carlsberg carriage somewhere.

You may wonder why Tuborg Beer is brewed at the Carlsberg Brewery? So am I, but the explanation is, that Tuborg up until 1970 was an independent company. Then for some reason it was bought by Carlsberg - much to the regret of many, including myself. I remember leading people from Carlsberg declare that, in such a small market like the Danish, in the future there would be room for three breweries or less. History has shown they were (probably deliberately) wrong: today we have at least 25 (minor) breweries on the danish market.

A final word on Carlsberg:
They treated their workers very well. Founder J.C.'s wife Laura (1836-1911) got the idea to establish a canteen and a first aid, as an assistance to the employees - probably the first of its kind in the world. The first years she was working in the kitchen herself and nursing the wounds of the workers. Besides, she was founder of two scholarships for poor women - an admirable person.

Carlsberg

Visit Carlsberg

Carlsberg Museum

Carlsberg Group (Wikipedia)

Rest. Noma
Strandgade 93
1401 Copehagen K
Metro station: Christianshavn

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What can I tell about Noma that you don't already know? Oh yeah, the name: it's an abbreviation of two danish words,
NO = Nordisk = Nordic and
MA = Mad = Food.

We were out there, when they opened 2003, they make excellent and original food, and earn Michelin stars by the numbers, at a price you won't believe so bring your wallet!

Rest. Noma

Rest. NOMA (Wikipedia)

Flyvergrillen (airport barbeque)
Amager Landevej 290 (at the end of the road)
2770 Kastrup
Bus: 350S

This is one of my humble favourites: Flyvergrillen (the airplane grillbar). It is located some ten miles outside town, right on the other side of the Copenhagen Airport fence. From here you can watch any landing or take-off. At the same time you can have a cheap meal, e.g. "bøf med løg" (beef with eggs and onions) which is a favourite of many danes.

Rene, 54, is one of the flyspotters you can meet at the Flyvergrill. He is spending most of his time out here on the outskirts of town, watching planes, smoking cigarettes, talking to friends, eating, thinking about life and more. Personally, I have been here several times watching planes in an unformal and relaxed atmosphere. Highlights were the landing of Airbus A 380, Sept. 15, 2010 and the arrival of American president Barack Obama the following year in his Air Force One.

Flyvergrillen

Flyvergrillen

Flyspotter

To be seen from Flyvergrillen

Amager Bus & MetroMap

International Arrivals

International Departures

Vestamager (Western Amager)
Naturområdet Vestamager
Finderupvej
2770 Kastrup
Metro station: Vestamager

A sight like this can be yours at Vestamager....
Well, the gas tank in the background was worn out and demolished Sept. 2012.
That leaves us with a great number of deer out in God's own nature.

Out on the Western tip of Amager you'll find this huge nature reserve called Vestamager (Western Amager). If you have got any interest in nature, I strongly advise to visit this area. Out here in the wilderness, just two or three miles from Town Hall Square (actually, the town hall tower is visible on a good day) you'll find birds (too many to mention, but among others Raven, Heron, Goshawk, waders, Bittern, Buzzard), trees, deer, hare, fox, and even horses and oxes, as some of the fields are used as a recreational area for the livestock of Sealand (Sjælland) during the summer.

To get out here, take the Metro to terminal stop Vestamager and walk five minutes to the gate of Vestamager. It's a huge area, so I suggest to rent a bike, otherwise the distances out here (5-10-15-20 km) can be too long.

Vestamager

A political statement

Some tourists are wondering why we pay so high taxes in Denmark?

The answer is that we don't - it's a delusion, especially if you take into consideration how much welfare we get from our taxes. We are guaranteed hospital service, schooling, education, dental service, age ensurance. Besides, the system is taking care of roads, water, church, military, police, foreign affairs and more. This is probably the reason why Denmark in many studies are considered a happy nation - people are generally satisfied with the system.

Contrary to what many tourists believe, tax paying is good for most of us. It's good because it facilitates the welfare system. The welfare system is good for (at least) three reasons.

1. It's good for society, because society in this way is secured a smooth development. The society works smoothly, wages are rising smoothly, people are satisfied, no suffering, no big trouble, no riot, no revolution, no civil war - overall a well handled society.

2. It's good for the individual, because the welfare system facilitates his or her path through life. Not that it dictates, but that it facilitates. The welfare system ensures the possiblity to lead a good, meaningful life with job, family and friends.

3. It's good for the employers, because the welfare system is delivering a well educated, well trained and motivated workforce who is also healthy - and usually remains so through lifetime.

The educational system is for everyone and not just for a certain social class. E.g. someone told about the conditions in the US, where many young people never get a chance to educate because of their social background or the scholarship system. Or the american prisons filled up with (predominantly black) people who never got a chance in life.

So, it only seems reasonable to conclude that the bottom line is positive. To a large degree this is because the country is inhabited by healthy and well educated citizens. What more could anyone ask for. I know of course a few wealthy people who complain about the taxes (they probably would complain no matter how low the taxes), but overall most people accept the idea of a welfare state - that we all have a responsibility for each other and everyone should have a chance in life. I wish the same responsibility was working elsewhere. Feel free to copy!

Welfare state (Wikipedia)

A final word
That's about all, hopefully you found some useful information - this was my intention. In case of any error or lacking information, don't hesitate to contact:

Sincerely
Kurt Starlit
aka CykelKurt

Links

Copenhagen Map

Copenhagen video 1 (Intro & Nyhaven)

Copenhagen video 2 (Museums)

Copenhagen video 3 (Local Guide)

Copenhagen Airport (Wikipedia)

Map of city areas

Copenhagen 1937 (YouTube)

Copenhagen (WikiTravel)

AOK Guide (AOK = Alt Om København = all about Copenhagen)

Cycling Copenhagen (through North American eyes) (YouTube)

City of Cyclists (YouTube)

Locals guide to Christianshavn, Christiania, Nørrebro, Østerbro, Vesterbro & Frederiksberg boroughs (YouTube)

Copenhague, Dinamarca (YouTube)

A comment from Chris Albertson

Last update: 2014.June.20

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